At 600 miles i did my first oil change (Ever) and I will never pay to have it done again. With this bike it took one minute to get this thing preped for draining.

Since it is a naked bike it is very easy to work on and i love it for that =)

Good for you Chris! I paid $140 dollars for my 600 miles service and $180 for the 4,000 service. The second one was worth it since they changed the breaking fluid and the coolant along with the oil, but the 600 mile was just an over priced oil change!

Some of you guys who are more experienced, can you share with the rest of us the secrets to the successful oil change? Steps, oil recommendations, what you do with the old oil, et cetera.



At 600 miles i did my first oil change (Ever) and I will never pay to have it done again. With this bike it took one minute to get this thing preped for draining.

Since it is a naked bike it is very easy to work on and i love it for that =)

Hey, fellas, I just picked mine up this morning following its first service. I was worried after seeing a lot of other fellas' posts about the cost. I feel like I skated relatively easily. I'm stuck for $15 in oil (What!?), $12 on a filter (What!?!) and $64 in labor. Oh, and don't forget the $6.40 "environmental fee."

Here in San Jose we have recycling of used oil. Call the gargage/recycling folks and ask them for oil recycling container and oil filter bag. The container is a one gallon jug like a milk jug but with a screw on top. Just leave it out on the street with your garbage and they will pick it up and give you a new jug and bag.

I think auto parts stores also take used oil as well, call them and ask.

After riding is the best time to change your oil, but wait till the pipes cool first. Drain oil, put plug back on with new washer, change oil filter, and fill up with oil again. Use a motorcycle specific 10w-40 is what honda recommends. You can also use thicker oil as well but not thinner unless you are riding in freezing temperatures. Don't use motor oil with moly in it, any motor oil that says energy conserving has moly in it. Moly will cause your clutch to slip. Thinner oil tends to also have moly in it. Outside of those two issues you can pretty much use any motor oil you want. If you want to use synthic wait til you completely break in the engine first, 5k miles should be plenty.

Good for you Chris! I paid $140 dollars for my 600 miles service and $180 for the 4,000 service. The second one was worth it since they changed the breaking fluid and the coolant along with the oil, but the 600 mile was just an over priced oil change!

Some of you guys who are more experienced, can you share with the rest of us the secrets to the successful oil change? Steps, oil recommendations, what you do with the old oil, et cetera.

At 600 miles i did my first oil change (Ever) and I will never pay to have it done again. With this bike it took one minute to get this thing preped for draining.

Since it is a naked bike it is very easy to work on and i love it for that =)

I'm curious if you guys are using Repsol or not? What oil are most of you guys using? Do you think there is any benefit with using a particular oil for bikes?

I've been driving japanese built high revving I-4 and/or turbocharged I-4 cars most of my life (past 15 years driving) and I'm a very loyal Amsoil Series 2000 motor oil guy. I use Amsoil brake fluid, tranny fluid, diff fluid, coolant. Uuumm..All of our cars are filled with Amsoil for ALL fluids. Irregardless of anyone else's opinion...I'm sold on Amsoil synthetics for my cars and have been for about 9 years now.

I'm curious if any of this really matters with motorcycles...specifically the 599?

For those of you who have yet to change your motorcycle oil and filter yourselves, a filter removal tool such as this (http://www.toolsource.com/ost/product.asp?sourceid=overtureoil&dept%5Fid=500&pf%5Fid=99708&mscssid=MFXVK3CK3R8Q8J0RPV0HR66WW5E3AU91) will make your lives much easier:


Preferrably find one with a nut on the end of it so you can use a basic wrench to remove and install the filter. Your local motorcycle shop should have them in stock.

Or, you can get a K&N filter which come with nuts pre-welded to the top of the filter:

http://www.knfilters.com/oilfilter.htm

Here's an important point.

After you fill your bike up with oil, start it and let it idle for a few min.

Then shut it off and check your oil level. You'll notice that it's much lower! Why? The oil filter and parts are now full of oil.

Add more oil till you are good.

Also, always use motorcycle oil. Motorcycle oil has special lubricants for the transmission as well. Car oil does not.

So, as long as you change your oil on time and use an approved motorcycle oil your bike will last you over 100,000 miles easy.

If you guys want I can help with chaning other fluids like break fluid and coolant. It's much easier than you might think.

It makes me laugh when people say they did a oil change on their bike and think they did a service.

There is much more to it than that. Typically at my shop, bikes like the 599 get... Adjustment of clutch freeeplay, service air filter, CHECK/ADJUST YOUR TIRE PRSSURES {people are BAD about that}, adjust thorttle freeplay, ADJUST AND LUBE YOUR CHAIN {ditto}, check and adjust your lights, top off coolant, check for any play in wheel bearings, swingarm bearings, torque head bearings, adjust your controls and test ride the bike. I'm not saying it's rocket science, but it's not like for $150 we just put some oil in it, and slap it on it's ass. Also this is my technicians chance to spot any potencial WARRANTY issues your bike might have, before they become real problems

Each to his own, I just don't want anybody to complaint that their clutch is fried in 1200 miles because they've never bothered to adjust their clutch freeplay. And then on top of that expect the manufacturer to pay for the repair. Not that has ever happend to one of my customers before... :?

I do think that dealerships are getting worse and worse about providing service. Doing it RIGHT is something we pride ourselves on. I called the local Honda dealership on my bike, just to see what they quote me on a 16,000 mile service for my bike. I was told "about $300". No way, no how will the technician have enough time for that amount of money to do a REAL proper 16K service on my bike. This is why people get screwed, because I guarrantee you that he won't pop the valve cover off to do a valve adjustment on it. Something the book calls for at 16K miles.

Then people complaint that my services are too high, when in acutality, my service are fair because we ACTUALLY PERFORM THE WORK, instead of just screwing you over and doing that "glorified oil change".

It makes me laugh when people say they did a oil change on their bike and think they did a service.

There is much more to it than that. Typically at my shop, bikes like the 599 get... Adjustment of clutch freeeplay, service air filter, CHECK/ADJUST YOUR TIRE PRSSURES {people are BAD about that}, adjust thorttle freeplay, ADJUST AND LUBE YOUR CHAIN {ditto}, check and adjust your lights, top off coolant, check for any play in wheel bearings, swingarm bearings, adjust your controls and test ride the bike. I'm not saying it's rocket science, but it's not like for $150 we just put some oil in it, and slap it on it's ass. Also this is my technicians chance to spot any potencial WARRANTY issues your bike might have, before they become real problems

Each to his own, I just don't want anybody to complaint that their clutch is fried in 1200 miles because they've never bothered to adjust their clutch freeplay. And then on top of that expect the manufacturer to pay for the repair...

Not that has ever happend to one of my customers before... :?

I have to agree. At least this work is done at a good shop. The shop I use is just such a place. I do most of the easy stuff myself: oil, filters, chain maintence, cables, etc. However, I did pay for the shop to do the inital 600 mile service on my 599 because I wanted them to look it all over, recheck torque settings and such. Cost me like $160, iirc.

I probably won't pay for another service until 16K, which is when the valves need to be inspected/adjusted. That I won't do. Can I do it? Sure. But I have better things to do with my time. :) That's just me though. Some people like all that wrenching. I've done enouogh of it in my life. I'd rather ride.

The shop I use, which is where I purchased the bike, also gives preferential treatment to customers that purchased bikes there. Not in that they won't service your machine if you didn't purchase it there, just in that you get bumped ahead of all those people who didn't. I have no problem with that.

They've been around 36+ years now, so this can present issues at times. Like the spring. Though if I need something done in the spring I'm usually in there around March. A month or so before the HUGE rush of riders.

At 600 miles all you need is an oil change.

The rest isn't hard with a manual, some tools, and a case of beer.

At 600 miles all you need is an oil change.

The rest isn't hard with a manual, some tools, and a case of beer.

I'm not saying it's hard. I certainly could've done it myself. My point was that I wanted the dealership to look it over.

I did have a warranty fix that needed to be done as well - the clock wouldn't hold time. Having a clock on the bike is tres nice! More so if it actually keeps time after you shut the bike off. :)

At 600 miles all you need is an oil change.

Steve, you're flat out wrong brother. :cry:

How am I wrong? I've had three new bikes, put many miles on them and haven't had a problem.

If you think the dealership does any more than change your oil then you're dreaming.

I'm all for by the book schedualed maintenance, but the first one is just a bonus for the dealers. In the old days things were different, but not with modern bikes.

At most you should check it over and see if anything needs to be tighted up.

How am I wrong? I've had three new bikes, put many miles on them and haven't had a problem.

If you think the dealership does any more than change your oil then you're dreaming.

I'm all for by the book schedualed maintenance, but the first one is just a bonus for the dealers. In the old days things were different, but not with modern bikes.

I'm a service manager at a Yamaha/Kawasaki dealership, so I guess I must be dreaming here. Yes times have changed, but it doesn't mean bikes don't require basic maintnance. And at 600 miles, just going from what I've seen with my own eyes, not from some OEM maintnance book, 99% bikes do require more than just a oil change. I hope you also realise that the 599 has mostly mid-90's technology parts on it, so the "times have changed" bit doesn't really fly.

Anyways, I digress.

Ok, I like to debate so don't take this personal ok? That said I'd like to pick this appart for the hell of it :)

Here are the points you mentioned in your post.

1 adjust clutch. The cable will eventually wear out, but not in 600 miles. Maybe 16,000 if you don't lube it. If the rider doesn't like it he can twist the knob to his liking. What you like isn't what everyone likes.

2 air filter. At 600 miles it won't be dirty at all. Common, are you kidding me? Are you going to look at it and say "yup, it's good" then charge man hours for that?

3. Tire pressure. It takes longer to remove the cap than to check the pressure.

4. Adjust throttle. It's not going to be out of whack in 600 miles. It's a steel cable. It will take longer to find your wrachet than to adjust it.

5. lube adjust chain. This is an O-ring sealed chain. It doesn't need lube ever! All the lubricant it will ever need is sealed in the chain. And it 600 miles it won't be streched any.

6. Adjust check lights. Yup, they are on. Yes I can see the road. There's another man hour right there! Just plain stupid.

7. Top coolant. Anyone with two eyes can see the coolant resivour. If it's between the hashmarks it doesn't need any more.

8. bearings. The wheel bearings are sealed. They are fine. You'll need some serious miles to damage them.

I can understand you protecting your business. But I think you're taking advantage of noobs here. All this stuff is important and needs to be addressed, but not at 600 miles.

Open the owners manual that came with the bike. Mine for my 919 says only to replace the oil filter and change the oil. It doesn't even say to inspect the valves.

And the most important point to doing your 600 mile service at the dealership? It could possibly void your warranty if you don't.

I like to debate so don't take this personal ok
Cool, but lets all be be cautious not to stray from being respectful and supporting points with facts.

Ideally nothing is supposed to go wrong...BUT the dealer is checking all those things to see IF they need attention. The majority of misadjustments and part failures due to manufacturing/assembly defects will crop up with in the first few % of their lives. So checking cables, chains, and linkages, bearings and and other mechanicals that are supposed to be good anyways does make sense.

Now if one is mechanically apt and knows what to be looking for and how to adjust, then maybe they got the preventative maintenance covered. Point is, Matt’s post is sound advice for most riders and as pointed out, keeping a warranty valid is nothing to jeopardize. Assuming everything was spot on at 0 miles and nothing has any tolerance issue or vibrated loose or failed(ing)...or... yeah, maybe it is a waste of money but I think that is the wrong attitude to embody, it is strait up insurance. Parts occasionally do fail or wear out prematurely and I for one don’t really know everything to be looking for.

Also, I think he is implying they check all those things at every service, not just the 600 and there is nothing like having a tech with a trained eye/ear/touch go over a bike, so for some peace of mind may be worth it regardless of the owners mechanical abilities. Also unless I’m mistaken it's all at a Book Rate which means unless something out of the ordinary is found the number of hours charged are fixed no matter what dealer services the bike. (However, the $/hour may vary)

As much as i usually avoid stealerships, i do support the idea of getting your bike checked over and all the little things adjusted as needed. If you don't know how or don't want to mess with it or don't know what you're doing, definately take it to the dealer to get serviced and checked. One of my friends bought his first bike this summer and started riding. The clutch was extremely hard to pull, but other than that he was happy with it. After we got his clutch figured out (several weeks after he got the bike), me and my other friend Mike went over the whole thing and adjusted throttle freeplay, lever positions, tire pressures (one tire was around 18psi), and...something else...i forget. Anyways, after he got on that bike and took it for a ride he couldn't stop saying how it felt like a whole new bike. Just goes to show that nothing may be glaringly wrong with your bike, but that doesn't mean it doesn't need some attention. If you don't know how to do it, take it to someone who does.

I put my comments in CAPITAL LETTERS. I know I'm wasting my time here, but I'll try...




1 adjust clutch. The cable will eventually wear out, but not in 600 miles. Maybe 16,000 if you don't lube it. If the rider doesn't like it he can twist the knob to his liking. What you like isn't what everyone likes.

WRONG!! THIS ISN'T ABOUT "LIKE OR NOT LIKE". THERE IS A SPEC FOR EVERY BIKE ON CLUTCH FREEPLAY. YOU'RE ADJUSTING CLUTCH FREEPLAY DUE TO CLUTCH WEAR/BREAK-IN. NOTHING TO DO WITH THE CABLE, OR WHAT YOU PREFER. ON MOST F NOT ALL BIKES, IT'S OFF BY A FAIR MARGIN. IMPROPER FREEPLAY OVER TIME WILL, NOT MIGHT STEVE, WILL MAKE YOUR CLUTCH FAIL. THIS ISN'T SOME INTENET MYTH. IT'S A FACT.

2 air filter. At 600 miles it won't be dirty at all. Common, are you kidding me? Are you going to look at it and say "yup, it's good" then charge man hours for that?

OIL BLOWBACK FROM AIRBOX WILL GET THE AIR FILTER DIRTY THOUGH ON BIKES LIKE THE 599 NOT VERY LIKELY UNLESS YOU'RE A LOCAL WHEELIE MERCHANT. BUT YES THEY ARE USUALLY CLEAN AT 600 MILES THOUGH IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO CHECK THEM.

3. Tire pressure. It takes longer to remove the cap than to check the pressure.

THEN HOW COME 70%+ BIKE THAT COME THROUGH THE SHOP ARE WAY UNDER THE SPEC??? MOST PEOPLE THAT COME THROUGH MY SHOP DON'T EVEN KNOW WHAT ARE THE PRSSURES THEY NEED TO RUN. BIZZARE, BUT TRUE.

4. Adjust throttle. It's not going to be out of whack in 600 miles. It's a steel cable. It will take longer to find your wrachet than to adjust it.

USUALLY, WE LIKE TO CHECK IT JUST TO MAKE SURE THE GUY THAT SET THE BIKE UP DIDN'T SCREW IT UP. WHEN WE SELL THE BIKE, IT'S USUALLY RIGHT ON. SO I'LL GIVE YOU THAT. POINT IS, IT STILL TAKES TIME TO CHECK.

5. lube adjust chain. This is an O-ring sealed chain. It doesn't need lube ever! All the lubricant it will ever need is sealed in the chain. And it 600 miles it won't be streched any.

WRONG!! THIS IS ABOUT THE TIME I AM WONERING WHY I AM EVEN "DEBATING" WITH YOU STEVE. YOUR IGNORANCE IS REALLY SHOWING HERE. YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO CHECK/ADJUST FREEPLAY AND LUBE EVERY 500 MILES!!! O-RING CHAINS INCLUDED. MIGHT WANT TO CHECK THAT 919 MANUAL AGAIN... AND AT 600 MILES IT WILL HAVE STRECHED THE MOST IT WILL EVER IN IT'S WHOLE LIFETIME. IT IS ALSO BREAKING IN, AND IS GOING THROUGH HEAT CYCLES.

6. Adjust check lights. Yup, they are on. Yes I can see the road. There's another man hour right there! Just plain stupid.

ACTUALLY WE CHARGE 1.5 HR FOR EVEYTHING, INCLUDING THE TEST RIDE. THEN I AS THE SERVICE REPRESENTATIVE HAVE TO WRITE YOU UP, MAKE SURE YOU ARE HAPPY WITH YOUR BIKE AND PROBABLY EDUCATE YOU ON SOME OF THE MYTHS THAT YOU READ ON THE INTERNET!!! AND THEN I USUALLY RIDE THE BIKE MYSELF TO MAKE SURE IT RUNS AS I'D LIKE IT TO RUN IF IT WAS MY BIKE. THEN WE LIKE TO WIPE THEM DOWN NICE AND CLEAN. THAT'S A FAIR AMOUNT OF TIME TO DO EVEREYTHING WITHOUT RUSHING TOO MUCH. NOT A STEAL, BUT CERTINALY NOT HIGHWAY ROBBERY.

7. Top coolant. Anyone with two eyes can see the coolant resivour. If it's between the hashmarks it doesn't need any more.

SOME BIKES ARE A HONEST PAIN IN THE ASS TO GET TO, BUT I HOPE YOU KNOW THAT OEM'S LEAVE THE COOLANT A LITTLE LOW TO MAKE SURE IT DOESN'T GET PUSHED OUT OF THE COOLANT RESEVOIR AND PISS ALL OVER YOUR GARAGE FLOOR THE FIRST DAY YOU GET IT HOME. IT NEEDS TO GET TOPPED OFF, YOU GUESSED IT...1ST SERVICE!!!

8. bearings. The wheel bearings are sealed. They are fine. You'll need some serious miles to damage them.

YOUR STEERING/WHEEL BEARINGS ARE SEALED, BUT NEED TO ME TORQUED PROPERLY TO MAKE SURE YOUR BIKE HANDLES RIGHT. ALSO WE DO THINGS LIKE CHECK ENGINE MOUNTS, AND HEADER NUTS. YUP, I KNOW YOU KNOW BETTER STEVE BUT BELIEVE IT OR NOT, WE DO FIND STUFF LIKE THAT LOOSE. HEADER NUTS ESPECIALLY.

I can understand you protecting your business. But I think you're taking advantage of noobs here. All this stuff is important and needs to be addressed, but not at 600 miles.

THIS ISN'T ABOUT ME "PROTECTING MY INTEREST" STEVE. I COULDN'T CARE LESS IF YOU DECIDE TO PROTECT YOUR INVSESTMENT OR NOT. TO ME IT'S ABOUT EDUCATING FELLOW RIDERS. PROPER MAINTNANCE WILL SAVE YOU LOTS HEADACHES DOWN THE ROAD. IF YOU DON'T CARE ABOUT YOUR BIKE, OR THINK YOU KNOW BETTER...THAT'S FINE BY ME. BUT DON'T SPREAD YOUR IGNORANCE TO OTHERS STEVE. THIS IS THE MAJOR BEEF I HAVE HERE. YOU'RE WRONG, AND TRYING TO TELL ME THAT I AM TAKING ADVANATAGE OF OTHER PEOPLE IS PLAIN BULLSHIT. AS WE'D LIKE TO SAY IN THE BUSINESS "YOU KNOW JUST ENOUGH TO BE DANGEROUS"

I'M NOT SAYING DON'T DO YOUR OWN MAITNANCE, BUT...MAKE SURE THAT YOU ARE INDEED CAPABLE AND KNOWLEDGABLE ENOUGH TO DO IT RIGHT. AND TO BE PERFECTLY HONEST STEVE, JUST JUDGING BY SOME OF YOUR COMMENTS IN THIS POST, YOU'RE PROBABLY ARE ONE OF THOSE GUYS THAT SHOULDN'T BE DOING YOUR OWN MAITNANCE. AND LIKE I SAID PREVIOUSLY, THE 1ST SERVICE IS USUALLY THE ONE I'D TAKE MY BIKE TO HAVE A DEALERSHIP DO. JUST FROM THE WARRANTY PPOINT OF VIEW. IT'S ALSO NOT A BAD IDEA TO DEVELOP A RELATIONSHIP WITH THE GUYS IN THE BACK, JUST IN CASE YOU REALLY DO NEED SOME HONEST ADVICE ABOUT GETTING YOUR BIKE WORKED ON DOWN THE LINE...

Open the owners manual that came with the bike. Mine for my 919 says only to replace the oil filter and change the oil. It doesn't even say to inspect the valves.

WELL, THE MANUAL SAYS THE LITTLE 599 NEEDS MOST OF THE THINGS I MENTIONED. ON TOP OF A VALVE ADJUSTMENT!!! BUT I'M SURE I'M JUST TRYING TO SCAM THE NOOBS HERE...

And the most important point to doing your 600 mile service at the dealership? It could possibly void your warranty if you don't.

Actually, "could" being the key word there. Unless my technician can prove to me that lack of maintnance, or improper maintnance caused a faiulre on your bike, with THAT particular component, your warranty covrage will stay intack.

For example, if you put a pipe on your bike, the warranty on that particular item is void. But it doesn't mean I won't cover the blown fork seal.

Some dealers are hardass about that crap. We just use common sense. :)

I'll let you know when my Hornet breaks down. :lol:

I'll let you know when my Hornet breaks down. :lol:

It won't, it's a Honda. :lol:

It'll just feel like crap, versus a bike that has been maitained properly. Something I also get to see in the business.

p.s. On a serious note, you REALLY need to lube that chain. :shock:

You two :grouphug Everyone’s opinion is valid, just some more so than others. :lol:

Personally, I never lube the chain and _seem_ to get just as many miles out of my chains and sprockets as do the guys who get their bikes all messy. I don't however ride in the rain or snow (you crazy people know who you are) - I don't even ride across wet pavement. I keep it as clean as possible and don't leave it outside. I may not be right but it works for me. All the other points I'm still with Matt. Come on, how do you even KNOW they even put an air filter IN there unless you check? :thinking :lol:

It won't, it's a Honda
:thumbsup Folks, this is quite possibly the most maintenance free "sport" bike ever.

Ok rndthought, I'm hanging up my gloves for now.

I don't know if your air filter question was a joke or not, but you'd know it if it wasn't there because it wouldn't run correctly. Honda's more than others have very sensitive air boxes. Messing with the flow, even with a K&N can result in some rough riding.

When it comes to things like the O ring chain, ask yourself some qustions. What is an O ring? What does it do? Why is it there? Find the answers to these questions and you'll then know what to do with it. I could tell you the answers but you may believe it more comming from another source.

Anyway, if anyone wants some how-to tips on maintenance let me know. It all pretty easy and when you can do it yourself it will make you feel all manly :D Just don't be scared. You most of the time you can undo anything you do if you mess up.

I could tell you the answers but you may believe it more comming from another source.

Yeah, like your Honda OEM manual. :lol:

The OEM manual doesn't explain why or how O rings work. It just tells you how to keep it shiney. The O ring's are there to permanently seal the lubricant near vital areas. The cleaning and lubing is just to make it look nice on the outside.

How many times have you packed the bearings on your car wheels? None, because they are permanently sealed. Just like the O-rings on your chain.

In 1975 lubing the chain every 500 miles was important, times have changed. But I understand why you keep at this. Every time someone is educated and doesn't go to your shop, you loose another $300.

I'm not the one who coined the phrase "stealership"

...if anyone wants some how-to tips on maintenance let me know...it will make you feel all manly...

Hell yah! That'd be great and I'm sure anyone who put the effort into something like that would get lots of kudos.

First, I don't even know where my air filter is! So that'd be great start! :D (and it was a joke...but I have seen stranger so you never know...!)

Ok rndthought, I'm hanging up my gloves for now.
That didn't last long :lol:

Here is an explosion of your bike. (http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/oem_schematic_view~schem_dept_id~1134826~section_d ept_id~1~section_dept_name~OEM+%28Stock%29+Parts~d ept_type_id~2~model_dept_year~2004~model_dept_mfr~ Honda~model_dept_id~1132616~model_dept_name~CB600F .asp) It looks like it's the same as my 919 only on the other side. All you need to do is remove a few screws on the left side of the bike. The manual will tell you how as well.

It's that easy!

And when your chain does need some cleaning just buy a can of lube at your local part's store aim, and squirt! It helps if you use a stand so that you can rotate the tire as you go along, but you don't need it. Directions of where to squirt are on the can. The only think you should avoid is penetrating oils like WD-40. Those oils will penetrate the O-rings and flush out the vital lubricants over time.

There you go. You can do it everyday if you like. :D

And for a lot less money.

Steve, don't get mad at me my friend. If I didn't have to lube my o-ring chain, I wouldn't either.

The problem you see is, when the o-ring chain isn't lubed properly, the little rubber o-rings dry out and crack, therefore letting all that sealed grease we're talking about, out.

It's not like I am on a personal agenda to ruin your conspiracy theories Steve. It's mere facts known to most educated motorcyclists.

And yes, I am pure evil since I won't service people's bikes for free. I am sorry that I have to make a living. You're more than welcome to pay my bills Steve. I am sure somebody can do YOUR job for half the price as well.

Anyways, here you go, 35 second search on google.

http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcnuts/chain.html

I don't hate you Matt. I concider everyone my friend here, even when we disagree.

But I do think that no one is going to care for my bike more than me.

I do put chain lube on my chain to keep it looking nice, but not at 600 miles. When it is time, I buy a can for $5.

Some topics like chain lube, oil, and break in procedures are very contrivercial. People are on boths sides of the fence. I just want to put my side forward and encourage people to do some of their own maintenance.

Keep the debate going if you'd like guys, I say it gives others the information to decide for themselves. I, for one, am clueless enough about things like clutch cables to need to pay someone else to adjust it. ...not that I can't learn, but who's going to show me?

... but, the real point of this post... I've renamed the "Honda Dealerships" section to "Honda Dealerships and Service Shops". If you own a shop or if you like the shop/dealership that you go to for service or your bikes, put it up in that section. It will help others not get screwed and give business to the honest shops that deserve it.

:thumbsup

Hell, I use WD40 Steve!!! YEAH!!! I never have advised any of my customers to do it, because I have heard bad things about it, but I have never had any issues with it. Not one. So yeah, I defenitally would agree that allot of the issues are subject to debate. But please don't think I'm posting here to somehow scare people or fool them into thinking that YOU MUST GO YOUR LOCAL DEALERSHIP, or your bike will explode off the rims. That's not my deal. If I wanted to make loads of money, I would have allredy left this dealership to work for a automobile dealership. That's were the real money is at.

I am merely trying to provide the knowledge I've gained due to personal experiences from working at a motorcycle shop. Nothing less, nothing more.

+1 :thumbsup
...if anyone wants some how-to tips on maintenance let me know...it will make you feel all manly...

Hell yah! That'd be great and I'm sure anyone who put the effort into something like that would get lots of kudos.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/

Scroll down to the bottom where it says WD-40 and Chains. I don't think it's a big deal but I'd stay away from it. Food for thought. I've used WD40 before and my bike didn't blow up.

Give me a list of what you want to do and I'll go take some pictures and video for ya'll.

Here's good tip if you go into your airbox or anytime you're putting a hard metal screw into something soft like plastic or aluminum.

When putting the screw back in. Put some pressure on it with the screwdriver then turn it to the left as if you were taking it out. Eventually you'll hear a "click" that means the thread is now in position. Then gently turn the screw to the right to tighten it. Don't force it! and don't use power tools.

Do this and you wan't strip your screws or plastics.

I have pictures ready for lubing the cable. I'll post up when I get off work.

No not wd-40, it is not a lube but a penetrating fluid to displace water hence the name Water Displacement formula 40, and get into tight places like for breaking a nut loose. It has horrible lubing properties compared to a real lube. And worst is that it attracts dirt, way more then real lubes I have used in the past.

For the maintenence issue just follow the owner/service manual and you'll be fine, cause no one knows the bike better then it's manufacturer. But not every one pays attention to such things or can do their own work (not enough time, all tumbs etc.) then these folks are the ones that should bring in their bikes to get serviced. For folks like me that have the competency and time it would be a waste to bring it into the stealership.

As far as the chain goes the o-ring keeps lube where it suppose to. Think about this if the lube escapes the o-ring then how is spraying lube on the chain gonna get the lube pass the o-ring and go where it is suppose to?? it doesn't you'll have to get a new chain. By the time the lube in gone from inside the o-ring then it is usuall time to change the chain as well.

Playing :twisted:

Think the major points of chain maintenance are that one wants to: Protect the chain from corrosion, Keep the O-Rings conditioned so they do their job, and there is still a bit of friction between the chain and da sprockets that needs to be addressed.

But I don't ride in rain/water/snow/dirt use the highest quality anodized chain and keep it clean. The logic is I don't expose it to conditions where it needs lube so it doesn't attract all the dirt and grit. May be total rubbish but I seem to do alright.

:idea: WD-40 works great as a cleaner/degreaser, but that is about all I use it for.

Can somebody make a quick reference as a new post. for all the maintenance intervals, and typically whats involved.

J- there is a quick referance in your owners manual that came with the bike. It's in chart form.

I'm trying to put each of those processes into video/pics but it's going to take some time.