http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

conclusions:

is that moto oil is way more expensive then auto oil even regular moto oil cost as much if not more then synthetic auto oil

is if you change your oil more often then suggested then you can use regular motor oil , synthetic won't work any better. Synthetic is good for longer oil interval changes like what it is advertise to do (ie. mobil 1 long life)

Moto oil is no better then auto oil and in many cases is worst. Cause todays auto oil is much better then say 30years ago when there was a difference. What matters is the spec of the oil not what it is labeled (marketed) for.

Recommendation:

is just use regular auto oil it is much cheaper then moto oil or synthetic oil

Motorcycle oil has additives for the transmission. In your car you put different lubricant in your motor than you do for your transmission. They are very differen't chemicals. That's why most car oils are not recommended for motorcycles.

Also, the newer car oils have friction modifiers that are not good for bikes. I don't know why, but a wise man told me so.

My conclusion is not to mess with what works. Motorcycle oil will always work with a motorcycle. Car oil maybe will, maybe won't.

As for the synthetic vs regular. I agree that in most cases it won't make a big differance. I know more than a few people that have over 100,000 miles on their bike with regular oil. Synthetic may reduce some noise and make shifting better, but that's about it.

my .02 take it or leave it.

Oil has been debated forever and never will everyone agree.

Motorcycle oil has additives for the transmission. In your car you put different lubricant in your motor than you do for your transmission. They are very differen't chemicals. That's why most car oils are not recommended for motorcycles.

Also, the newer car oils have friction modifiers that are not good for bikes. I don't know why, but a wise man told me so.

My conclusion is not to mess with what works. Motorcycle oil will always work with a motorcycle. Car oil maybe will, maybe won't.

As for the synthetic vs regular. I agree that in most cases it won't make a big differance. I know more than a few people that have over 100,000 miles on their bike with regular oil. Synthetic may reduce some noise and make shifting better, but that's about it.

my .02 take it or leave it.

Oil has been debated forever and never will everyone agree.

Yes that auto additive is moly which will make you clutch slip but moly is only available in oil that is 5w-30 or lighter, 10-40 does not have the stuff. Any auto oil that says energy conserving has moly in it.

Motorcycle tranny is tough on oil but with todays modern auto oil the shearing property is as good if not better then most moto oil. Read the article in the first link about the PHD from berkely that did the oil test and found that castrol gtx is better them all the regular moto oil the only ones that were better are synthetic.

For car transmission it depends what type of transmission, if automatic use automatic, but in my acura maunal transmision honda says use engine oil 10w-40.

yes oil has been debated but that is it only debated not tested and the Phd from Berkeley has tested it. The fact that the magazine that did the article put up a challange to moto oils mfgs and none steped up but instead wanted to test their synthetic oil againts regular auto oil is a joke. The test showed that moto oil did no better in many cases worse then todays modern auto oil.

Why pay more for oil when you don't have to?? What matters is the spec of the oil not what it is advertised as. The spec for modern day auto oil is equivalent to moto oil, so why pay 2-3 times more for moto oil? Fact is moto oil companies are gyping you out of $$, throwing out propoganda and keeping you ignorant...ignoracne doesn't pay.

What you say makes sense. Please, be the first and let us know how it goes

Why pay more for oil when you don't have to??
Same reason anyone pays more for somthing...It feeeeeels good. :lol:

Black bottle red cap Pro Honda GN4 Oil only for me. :thumbsup

Why pay more for oil when you don't have to??
Same reason anyone pays more for somthing...It feeeeeels good. :lol:

Black bottle red cap Pro Honda GN4 Oil only for me. :thumbsup

Oh so true about paying more..hhahahah..just like the way we paid more for our bikes, to an extent.

that first article also tested honda oil both regular and synthetic and found it to be middle of the pack in it's category. And also honda doesn't produce their own oil, it is just a rebaged of some other oil.

READ the article man! at least the first one, that one is much shorter. The second one just give info (oil specs) about oil no testing at all.

Black bottle red cap Pro Honda GN4 Oil only for me. :thumbsup


+1 :friday

Motorcycle oil has additives for the transmission. In your car you put different lubricant in your motor than you do for your transmission. They are very differen't chemicals. That's why most car oils are not recommended for motorcycles.

Also, the newer car oils have friction modifiers that are not good for bikes. I don't know why, but a wise man told me so.

My conclusion is not to mess with what works. Motorcycle oil will always work with a motorcycle. Car oil maybe will, maybe won't.

As for the synthetic vs regular. I agree that in most cases it won't make a big differance. I know more than a few people that have over 100,000 miles on their bike with regular oil. Synthetic may reduce some noise and make shifting better, but that's about it.

my .02 take it or leave it.

Oil has been debated forever and never will everyone agree.

What he said.

We've put Yamalube oil in a Aprillia, and the clutch started slipping. We cleaned the plates, put Agip back in it and it's happy again. Weird. Supposedly, it's thae same thing, right? Oil. Motorcycle oil at that...

Not sure why it happend, but that taught me not to mess around with oil crap. It's way in depth for me. And I'd rather be riding, than fooking about with oil facts...

I used Yamalube on everything I ride. I get it cheap from work, no other reason really.

I used Yamalube on everything I ride.
I don't know why but I find this funny :lol:

It's nice to have the hookup. :thumbsup

I used Yamalube on everything I ride.
I don't know why but I find this funny :lol:

It's nice to have the hookup. :thumbsup

It's funny because it implies that he uses Yamalube on his inflatable dolls. I mean, errrr, his girlfriends. :lol:

the owners/service manual says use of motor oil with API service classification fo SG or higher which is the equivalent to the motorcycle oil JASO T 903 standard: MA

As my point previously was that it is all about specs not marketing.

I just did my 600mile change and used 20w-50 motor oil it had a API of SM which is higher then the minimum recommendation

notice there are some discrepencies: in the owners manual (06) it says 8k miles for oil changes in the maintenance chart but says 4k miles in text on the back where quick quide/reference/spec is. I think 4k is more apropriate then 8k.

Also interesting to note that the owners manual says break in milege is 300 miles, or at least it says to take it easy during this time period. This also coincides with the break in of brakes and tilres as well.

belray 10 40 meets all the requirments and is all i use dont try you cant change mi mind :lol: :ride

I use Motul 5100 - Made for motorcycles and same price as auto oil!

No problems, never heard a bad word from it.

The Honda Oil GN4 is crazy expensive!! Too much for me for my 3-4k km oil changes.

Don't reply....Don't get involved....Don't ...get...sucked...in..to..the..never..ending.battl e.

GAAAAAHHHH I can't help myself.

I...use...AMSOIL.....15/40 heavy duty diesel and marine.

Or Shell Rotella T 15/40 diesel oil. It is truly made to resist shearing forces without additives. Shear forces are what eats up your oil in the bikes tranny.

No I don't completely buy into the whole "Zero wear with Amsoil BS, but I do really like it and run it in both my 7.3L Superduty Diesel and my Honda 599.

Don't reply....Don't get involved....Don't ...get...sucked...in..to..the..never..ending.battl e.

[size=24]GAAAAAHHHH

+1 Seetrout! :roll:

Anyway, you are right about shearing forces in the trans being the reason for needing something more than just engine oil. BUT... we also need to make sure we don't mess up the coeffiecient of friction in our clutch with too much slippery stuff, either. And to further complicate things, most bike engines don't use roller followers on the camshaft, which means current API SJ and SM motor oils are letting us down, too. The levels of ZDDP (zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate) have been reduced in newer oils, to make life better for catalytic converters and oxygen sensors. This is ok for the average car because most automotive engines now have roller followers, and the cams don't need the extreme pressure additives like the older engines with flat tappets did.

All is not lost, though. Your Shell Rotella, among other diesel oils and some racing oils, still has the zinc phosphate as part of its cocktail of additives.

Personally, I run GN4 oil, but if your clutch doesn't mind the Rotella, go for it. It is more than up to the task of keeping your engine and tranny alive.