Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDqoUO1b6to

Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gI0H9wIvIHY

Part 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UTGOVyL8pE

Finnished Product
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rrDN5HdXYY

This was a lot of work to film and upload so I hope it helps someone. My goal is to encorage people new to bikes to dive in and try to do something their selves. You'll save a lot of money and get to experiance another side of motorcycling that is rewarding in it's own right.

I want to make a comment that although the flasher relay made the blink rate perfect, the signals don't start up instantly. It takes 1 second for them to start. After a test ride I decided to pull it and put the orignial back in. This made the blink rate much faster. I may end up putting in the resistors aferall. I'll keep ya'll posted.

Video 3 was taken at some distance so here is a picture to show what my finished product looks like.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y123/ex500/SSS/CAtaillight.jpg

www.clearalternatives.com is where I ordered the parts.

It's also very rewarding to do something like this yourself, and very achievable if you take your time and think it through. It's alot of fun too.

I know you wanted to use the relay Steve, but just put the ends of the wires coming from the resistors in the connectors on each of the signal wires temporarily to see if that makes them work properly before you cut in permanently. Mine flashed WAY too fast w/o them, and it made them perfect. I'm not too concerned about heat since I wouldn't think i'd be having the blinkers on for extended periods of time, but I see your point. I'm pretty particular, so if I thought there was a better way i'd look into it myself. I even bought a new rear harness (since I modified the original)so If I ever wanted/needed to change it back to the stock configuration it would be plug and play. :roll:

Kewwll Steve nice work tghe only thing I wouldnt do is glue the weather stripping to the lense but rather position it into the channel on the housing and let it stay there rather then the lense but hey ur way worked and it looks good


:thumbsup

Just to throw in a different point of view regarding the resisters, I didn't install them or any other sort of relay to slow down the blink rate back to stock. After testing the lights before completely installing them, I decided to leave it at the faster rate because it's tough to deny that the blinkers in the tail light are harder for other drivers to see (in direct sunlight at least), so I figured the faster blinking would help get more attention. And it's not like it was obnoxiously fast, just a little quicker than normal. Plus, the resisters were two less things I had to worry about during the installation.

I must say, when completed, this was the mod I was most proud of on my 599. It got me more compliments than anything else (well, maybe except my Two Brothers exhaust).

I've read on several forums where people say they prefer the faster flash rate for safety. My problem is, I know it's not "right", and i'm so particular, i'd go through hell w/ gasoline shorts on to find a way to make them flash like they are supposed to. I can't help it. I think one of those doohickies that go on the back of your helmet and light up for the brake (not sure if they work w/ blinkers too) would be the ticket for safety.

I've read on several forums where people say they prefer the faster flash rate for safety.

I seem to remember reading somewhere (a bit fuzzy) there's an FMVSS standard on flash rate. Even fuzzier is "60-120 flashes per minute"... not sure that's right; I'll have to do some more surfing on that. Like you, I'd want it "right." One option might be to hop over to Radio Shack and pick up a variable resistor (some say "pot" or potentiometer). Put that in series with your LEDs and adjust until the flash rate is what you're looking for. Then take a meter and measure resistance across that pot. Then you know what resistor value you're looking for and can go back to the Shack (or to such online-capable vendors as Digi-Key) and get the resistor you need. (Just a thought. If it gets more complex than that, I'd be glad to discuss it further. I work with a crew of electronics gurus -- we'll find a way to make it work.)

... go through hell w/ gasoline shorts ...

Good one! Hadn't heard that before. Love it.

:wink:

I agree that the faster rate is easier to see, but it's technically illigal.

If I dick cop sees it you could get a ticket.

I'm going to call CA and see if I can't get a relay to start with a flash instead of a cancelation.

I don't know how well this works since I bought it but since I liked the faster blinkers I never used it. It's supposedly just a drop in replacement for the flasher relay that will flash at the default rate for LEDs.

Flasher Relay (http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=2&L2=53&L3=193&L4=&item=MRX_FRH1_G)

I don't know how well this works since I bought it but since I liked the faster blinkers I never used it. It's supposedly just a drop in replacement for the flasher relay that will flash at the default rate for LEDs.

Flasher Relay (http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=2&L2=53&L3=193&L4=&item=MRX_FRH1_G)

Yeah, that's what I have now. I have the CA brand. If there isn't a way to fix it I'll try some other brands.

Thanks for the link.

State trooper here in PA that handles the inspections of shops regarding their state inspection needs has told me that my faster rate is fine but that is here in PA ive had cops behind and in front of me many times with my blinkers on and had no problems my bike also always passes its yearly state inspection with the faster rate :wink: I did however buy 2 sets of these to have on hand in case it didnt pass but since it does and I like the faster rate I still have them un opened in the packaging

http://www.customled.com/PRODUCTS/MAGIC_BLINKER/magic_blinker.htm

I did this upgrade last night and i have to say I'm impressed with the final product. I had fears that the blinkers wouldn't be pronounced enough for cars to see or that the brake light might be weaker than the stock but it's awesome. My kit came with resisters instead of a replacement flasher relay. I wasn't impressed and they got super hot. So I just dropped in my flasher relay that I bought from Cycle Gear and it worked great.

I did this upgrade last night and i have to say I'm impressed with the final product. I had fears that the blinkers wouldn't be pronounced enough for cars to see or that the brake light might be weaker than the stock but it's awesome. My kit came with resisters instead of a replacement flasher relay. I wasn't impressed and they got super hot. So I just dropped in my flasher relay that I bought from Cycle Gear and it worked great.

Does the cycle gear one start with a blink? If so, I'm getting one.

I didn't ride the bike in to work today since it was 37 degrees out this morning but I'm 90% sure it did. I will check again and post here when I get home.

Excellent job, your like the martha stewart of bike modding :lol:

That was very detailed. Gstuff.

Maybe you should add in your original post some links where to find these Lights.

Maybe you should add in your original post some links where to find these Lights.

eBay is a great place for these. There are Clear Alternative taillights for every bike imaginable at decent prices. Just make sure you check their feedback rating.

Excellent job, your like the martha stewart of bike modding :lol:

That was very detailed. Gstuff.

Maybe you should add in your original post some links where to find these Lights.

Done!

More videos will come in the spring. My suggestion box is always open.

My suggestion box is always open.
Still wating on my tire pressure how to vid... :( :lol:

Does the cycle gear one start with a blink? If so, I'm getting one.

I just got off the bike and yes, it does start on a blink. It seems to work perfectly to me. A drop in replacement. Make sure you get the Honda one, they are manufacturer specific.

MOTRAX FLASHIT LED TURN SIGNAL EQUALIZER (http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=2&L2=53&L3=&L4=&item=MRX_FRH1_G)

My suggestion box is always open.
Still wating on my tire pressure how to vid... :( :lol:

Hey, some people didn't know where their air filter was.

I'll make the tire pressure video when you make a video on how to be a proper man whore. :lol: You're a discrace to man whores everywhere!

Hey, some people didn't know where their air filter was. :run
Hay, it's a Honda...I just ride the damn thing.

And that's Mr. Man Whore, Esquire to you. :wink:

Hay quick question, your throttle... does it have some slack from rest (full off) to when it starts to engage the mechanics of the carbs? If I had to guess, I'd say my cable travels with about a 1/2 inch of slack down there and don't really remember it always being that way, getting annoying. Easy adjustment?

You people can't stay on topic worth a shit. My throttle moves but probably not that much, more like 1/4" and my bike is brand new (only 450 miles).

Yes, both the clutch and the throttle cables should have some free play in them before they enguage.

You could adjust it out, but it's not good to do so. Just leave it.

The adjusting nuts are near your lever.

The adjusting nuts are near your lever.

Oh...so THAT'S what they are. :lol:

I wish someone had told me sooner. Pardon me while i go do some adjusting... :oops: :wink:

Edit: It wasn't as adjustable as my girl was hoping it would be...but i think she'll still notice the difference... :twisted:

You people (rndthought) can't stay on topic worth a shit.
:oops: It's ADD, I will try harder...

Has anyone succefully relocated the "Seat/Storage Key" on the 599. It is located on the plastic that gets removed during Steve's fender eliminator mod.

Image:
http://clearalternatives.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/CTL-0047-2.jpg

Let me know how some of you have gotten around this issue.

I really want to do this F/eliminator MOD.

Thanks!

If you're just installing the Clear Alternatives taillight/blinker kit, one option is to cut the fender directly below the lock. It's cheap (free) and really cleans up the rear of the bike. If you're going to buy an aftermarket eliminator kit, someone correct me if I'm wrong, but it should include the hardware needed to relocate the lock.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/DarkTint/Honda%20599/599rear.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/DarkTint/Honda%20599/599rightrear.jpg

My home made fender elim bracket didn't fit my new cans so I did a good ol' chop myself.

I cut the webbing out the back side then I drilled new holes for the metal bracket. I didn't want to go any higher than about half an inch because I didn't want to block my beautiful Staintunes. 8)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y123/ex500/SSS/chop1.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y123/ex500/SSS/chop3.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y123/ex500/SSS/chop4.jpg

They're beautiful pipes there, Steve...but what's with the little pipe outlet that sticks out past the main outlets? Makes it look kinda dorky from the side. Is there anything you can do about that???

from the back they are crooked ......looks like the left one to me :shock:

The dorky things are the silencer inserts. They are easily removed by a single bolt just under the lip. The cans are pretty quiet even without the inserts so I have them out for now. With them in it's DOT legal!

I've relocated the key slot from the plastic back to the right side of the undertray where the can is. It wasn't too hard after you figure it out. pm if you have any questions.

That's good that you can remove them. You could probably take a hacksaw or sawsall to the tips and cut them shorter so they don't look so weird when they're fitted in the pipe. Maybe at least get them to sit flush or something...would look so much better.

Aargh.

I bought a Clear Associates taillight specifically so I could use the LEDs. It did not work. No light at all. Feh.

Hey, some people didn't know where their air filter was. :run
Hay, it's a Honda...I just ride the damn thing.

And that's Mr. Man Whore, Esquire to you. :wink:

Hay quick question, your throttle... does it have some slack from rest (full off) to when it starts to engage the mechanics of the carbs? If I had to guess, I'd say my cable travels with about a 1/2 inch of slack down there and don't really remember it always being that way, getting annoying. Easy adjustment?

1/2" is WAY too much, should be 2-3mm... ummm that's like .118inches. Not really sure how you'd work that into fractions, well I am, but I'm not going too, lol.

The actual adjusting nut is down the length of the line a little ways, you'll find it under a rubber holder that can be pulled back. Then loosen off the small nut, and turn the big one out. This increases the length of the sleeve and takes the slack out of the cable. Make sure to leave SOME slack otherwise you'll start messing with your idle and it will throw of other adjustments down the road.

Aargh.

I bought a Clear Associates taillight specifically so I could use the LEDs. It did not work. No light at all. Feh.

It's clear alternatives... are you sure you didn't get a bunk/fake product?

That being said... the first thing to check if your lights don't light is the ground wire. Make sure it's connected and leading back to the battery/wiring harness. If that's good check the fuses.

Make sure that when you hooked wires together that you made a solid connection.


Are you getting brake light, but no signals? Or nothing at all?

Is this tutorial pretty much the same for the Competition Werks Turn Signal Assimilator?

http://estore.websitepros.com/1784228/Detail.bok?no=313

ASSIMILATOR II

Has anyone used the Assimilator II ? I have a LED now but I dont think it is bright enough and I like the red light cover with a black bike. I love my oberon front signals very bright and are visable both from the front and rear.

...I bought a Clear Associates taillight specifically so I could use the LEDs. It did not work. No light at all. Feh.
... the first thing to check if your lights don't light is the ground wire. Make sure it's connected and leading back to the battery/wiring harness. If that's good check the fuses.

Make sure that when you hooked wires together that you made a solid connection.

Are you getting brake light, but no signals? Or nothing at all?

Just installed mine last night...at first it didn't work...no turn signals or brake...Pissed... unplugged the thingy from the PCB that plugs into one of the lamp sockets, spun it 180 and then it worked...Happy! Light bulbs don't care what leg gets the Positive or Negative but the LED board does...so if at first it doesn't work, try spinning the plug in the socket around...

Some thoughts - I got the smoked lens with it (I'd rather clear so if anyone wants to trade...) Over all I like how it works. Was a bit disappointed that it wasn't a bit brighter than what it is but maybe is more visible in the dark. There are also turn signals in the brake light now so I like that - will be looking at the Oberon ones that are visible front and back soon...like next tax refund check :wink: I still have bulb style blinkers so the flash rate is the same as stock.

Just installed mine last night...at first it didn't work...no turn signals or brake...Pissed... unplugged the thingy from the PCB that plugs into one of the lamp sockets, spun it 180 and then it worked...Happy! Light bulbs don't care what leg gets the Positive or Negative but the LED board does...so if at first it doesn't work, try spinning the plug in the socket around...

The guy at Competition Werks told me to not use the plugs but actually cut the wires and attach not using the stock plug... haven't installed mine yet so can't comment on his... comment. :thinking

The guy at Competition Werks told me to not use the plugs but actually cut the wires and attach not using the stock plug..
That may be better ultimately, but I didn't want to cut anything. Once I get my blinkers and all sorted I may explore this further but for now I'm hesitant to cut any harness on the bike.

Maybe look in Mouser / Digikey / Jameco / Parts Express to find the same connector and wire that in...

My experience is that wire connectors become loose in time, especially with vibration. I purchased US sized stock round male type wire connectors and pluged them directly into the stock honda female ends. It works GREAT.

US sized stock round male type wire connectors

Can you get those at a place like Home Depot or do you have to go to a specialty place? I'm pretty dim on the electrical stuff!

RND I installed the clear alternatives and mine did the same thing ...just spun it 180 ..... voila !!!! :D

You guys mind givin the p/n for the CA int. Taillight Is this it? CTL-0047

scroll down on this page and you will see it ..... this is only the board check there site for lenses also if you need it ..... I got this board and the smoke lense :thumbsup


http://clearalternatives.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CA&Category_Code=INTEGRATORBOARD

Sweet, Thanks Mech.... Ordering it today...I think Smoked lens will look great on a black bike...Now for the Undertail and hugger

Smoke lense is the shiznit on a black bike and trust me it will be PLENTY bright for you too :thumbsup

I must say, My aftermarket quest is coming together very well...It'll take me weeks to get all this crap on.. Mostly because I dont stay off the bike long enough :D

Yep I know what you mean!!!!! I am the same way and I ALWAYS go check the weather and wait fore a rainy weekend to put my goods on or to do more tuning!!!! Take your time and dont do it all at once have some fun customizing it

as you can see here Ive been working on it all weekend :lol:

http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=17540

LOL lucks like I'm having the same thing up here... Good day to do the parts searching.... I have to wait till tomorrow and call about my GIVI Cage...But I'm looking for Mirrors and front signals right now.... Bought the CA rear integrated led yesterday.

I just wait until after my rides! I had to put on new turn signals on the rear because the Givi racks interfered with the stock signals. I bought some smaller turn signals at a dealer in Escondido on the way home (I was checking on my CB-1 too) and then installed them once I arrived. They look much nicer than the big-ass stock signals, I must say! :D

LMAO. we have posts scattered everywhere on this..

It's not humanly possible to stay on topic. :lol:

It's not humanly possible to stay on topic. :lol:
Not this group of hooligans anyway... :lol:

Honda599ADD.com

Just wanted to say thanks for the guide. Although I was able to figure most of it out, watching the vids last night saved a fair amount of the hassle.

With this mod, I've noticed from the video and from peoples' pictures, that the license plate light was removed. Is this illegal, and if so, it is just not that big of a deal?

I did a quick google search for California, and a light does not seem to be mandatory for the plate. But the words "clearly visible" have me a bit on edge.

With this mod, I've noticed from the video and from peoples' pictures, that the license plate light was removed. Is this illegal, and if so, it is just not that big of a deal?

The license plate light law varies from state to state. Here in Missouri a light is required. Is it a big deal? Well, if you get a ticket for it, you would probably think it is. It was never a big deal to me. :wink:

I have heard of integrated blinker/taillights with license plate lights built into them. Not sure if it was somebody here or not, but the guy didn't even realize it till he turned it on at night for the first time. There was simply one or two white LED's at the bottom of the tail light that apparently worked pretty well.

Cycle Gear has license plate bolts with LEDs built in... that's what my cousin uses and what I eventually will use. I've been riding for over a month with no light and no problem, though. I think when cops see a bike, they just think "there's a bike" and don't really pay attention to any specifics. I know a guy who hasn't had a license plate in months...

BTW, it's the fender eliminators/undertrays that get rid of the license plate light, not the CA taillight.

just to save some of you guys some time. after 2 1/2 hours and 6 fuses, i realized that the brake wires coming from the bike need to be plugged into the light socket seemingly backwards in the way it doesn't click in. the solid green wire needs to be on the side of the word "lock", otherwise it will keep blowing the crap out of the fuse. after you have done this if it still does not work, twist the plug coming from the LED board 180 degrees and then it'll all light up.
FYI