So it's easy to find I'll put the String Thing (http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/sportryderswheelalignmentmethod.shtml) in this section.

This method is sometimes needed because the swing arm on some bikes isn't exactly accurate. If your bike is wobbling this is one of the first things you should check.

GOOD LORD LOL Im glad I have one of these nifty little tools :D :D

http://www.laser-lines.com/

I've seen gizmo's like the lazer thing here in england but it's easier to use it just runs along the chain if thats straight the wheel must be :wink:

I've seen gizmo's like the lazer thing here in england but it's easier to use it just runs along the chain if thats straight the wheel must be
I used to use something like those when I raced shifter karts. Because the rear sprocket was adjustable on the axle, it was critical that you had it aligned correctly. One way to check was to clamp a laser to the center of the rear sprocket, so when it's beam was in the center of the front sprocket you knew it was centered.

Is there some “wheel alignment” practical procedure from the perspective of the wheels was just off the bike? The service manual basically makes it a “1. set wheel straight 2. set chain slack 3. torque" procedure...which is only helpful in the abstract.

Now that I have removed the rear wheel by MYSELF for the first time and attempted to put it all back together, I understand the need for these alignment tools...WHAT A ROYAL PIA. Those marks on the swing arm are good for nothing. (things you shouldn’t try for the first time the night before a big trip)

Would REALLY like one of them laser things that clamps on the chain...or a single side swing arm.

I did it by eye and think I’m close but 3 personal hours later and am now in search of some tape and string... :roll:

I've always used my eye and the hash marks on the bike, then again i've mostly worked on dirtbikes where you are going less than 60 mph.

It makes sense if you are racing, but I wouldn't be suprised if most shops don't even bother using the laser line. The thing that doesn't make sense to me is how do you know your front wheel is perfectly straight and you aren't aligning your rear wheel just to match your imperfect turned front wheel. IMO the real issue is making sure the front and rear sprocket are lined up perfectly so that the chain is lined up perfectly and it doesn't wear funny. If your bike's frame isn't tweeked it should then line up perfectly to the front wheel.

...how do you know your front wheel is perfectly straight and you aren't aligning your rear wheel just to match your imperfect turned front wheel...
I'd imagine that if the back is aligned to the front at some point...your bike will go straight in relation to the front wheel pivot point...bent frame is the only thing that could screw that up...

The kicker for me was after aligning to the hash marks, I pushed on the "washer" that moves with the axle on the right side when I was re-assembling the rear...and the washer had enough play to move a half a hash mark! WTF? How useful is that? :lol: (maybe mine is just bad?)

A friend of mine who has been riding for longer than I've been on the planet recommends the following technique:

Spin the wheel really hard a few times and let it come to rest. Look at the spacing between the rear sprocket tooth and the inner sideplates. If the tooth is dead center, you're good to go. Adjust accordingly.

Seems to work so far!