Ok, I've googled this topic and come up with some results, but none are very good.

I'm looking for info on removing wheels (to to to shop to have tires changed, i do NOT care to learn how to actually change the tire at this point), changing sprockets, and changing chains.

Can anyone point me to good resources? Prefferably with pics.

Before you even start, do you have front and rear bike stands? How about a big ass braker bar or a long torque wrench? Do you have a socket large enough to fit over the rear axl nut?

I don't have pictures now, but it's an easy process. First remove the rear axl cotter pin with some pliers. Then loosen the rear axl nut. Now put the bike onto a stand. Next check your manual on how to adjust the chain slack. Normally there are two adjusters on the end of the swing arm. Loosen those and push the wheel toward the motor. If you losend the nut enough it should slide easy. Now you have lots of slack in the chain. Pull the chain away from the bike and start to rotate the rear wheel by hand. The chain should come off the sprocket. Now continue to losen the axl nut untill it's off and pull the axl right out. Have a hand under the tire because it's going to fall.

There may be spacers so don't lose them! Also, there will be nothing holding the cush drive together so it may fall out. All that is is some rubber inside the hub. If you pull on the sprocket you'll see what I mean.

The front is just as easy. Losen one of the pinch bolts on your forks. Just one! Now use the appropriate tool to loosen the axl. Pull it out and the wheel comes out. You may want to remove the brake callipers from the mounts first to make it easier to line up.

With the wheels off be sure not to pump the brakes because you want the disks to slide back in the callipers.

When you put stuff back on be sure to use the correct torque specs and use a fresh cotter pin. They sell those at the home depot.

Rear Wheel Set Up (http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/oem_schematic_view~schem_dept_id~1132818~section_d ept_id~1~section_dept_name~OEM+%28Stock%29+Parts~d ept_type_id~2~model_dept_year~2004~model_dept_mfr~ Honda~model_dept_id~1132616~model_dept_name~CB600F .asp)

Ok, here you can see the parts.

3 is the axl

4 and 5 are spacers. They will fall out but maybe not easily. Remove them and keep them safe. Note the orientation and order.

7 will pull away from the wheel exposing the rubber 1 underneath. If this happens don't freak, it's supposed to do that.

Gracias...gracias..

:bow :bow :bow

Where does the cotter pin go in England there is nowhere to put one we just torque up the not and hey presto if you have put it back together properly you should have no problems :D

The axl nut has holes drilled in it, you just thread it through that. Maybe it doesn't do anything most of the time but I'm glad I have it.

I can only imagine what might happen if that thing flew off on the freeway.

I had the front wheel depart off a CT70 I was ripping down a trail on (as ripping as a CT70 can... :lol: ). Just a little wobbly sensation as a warning, then it was gone. No front wheel=CRASH! It wasn't too bad, I wasn't hurt. Found the axle, but not the nut. Slid it back in, and pushed it home. This was not my bike, so I was not privy to its service history (no excuse really). Live and learn. Didn't Kenny Rogers sing a song about that..."You picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel" :lol2

Wow. :roll:

Hey, Russ. You are obviously spending too much time lollygagging about on your two-wheeler instead of rooting for those Hammers.

I've completely given up on the Hammers the bike doesnt break my heart as much and i still cant find out where the COTTER PIN fits in the axle do Honda fit a castle nut on the US model mine is a plain nut torqued up to 66newton metres thats about 88lbft

Yup, that's what it looks like.

I went to take a picture of my axl nut as soon as I got home and I noticed that there is no pin! I guess I just assumed it would be there.

That $.30 of metal sure did buy some peace of mind.

Well there you go Steve Dear Boy us old folk are useful sometimes as I said make sure you torque the nut properly AND also check the CHAIN ADJUSTER NUTS mine came loose smashed the adjuster but because the axle nut was correctly torqued the wheel didnt budge :wink:

So after you change your chain and sprockets, do you have to "ALIGN" the tires using the string method? Or do you only do an alignment after you have actually changed a tire?

I'm not sure when you have to "align" the wheel. Do you have to do it every time you take the wheel out of the swingarm??

Yep, anytime the wheel comes out, you have disturbed the alignment. Most of the time, the marks on the swingarm will get you pretty close, but as it has been noted elsewhere, they are not the most precise means of aligning a wheel. Personally, I have never had a problem with using the marks, and eyeballing the spacing of the rim in the swingarm on any of my other bikes. If the alignment of the marks seem to match from one side to the other before the wheel comes out, they are probably as acurate as anything short of the laser tool. Just remember, if you are using the marks, try to start with the wheel a little too far forward. Then slowly draw it back into the position that provides the proper chain slack by tightening the adjusters evenly on both sides, a little at a time. The trick is keeping constant forward pressure on the wheel, so the adjusters are snug against the swingarm at all times. This will help you get it straight the first time.