I was intrigued by the look of these bars and just ordered a set to replace my Motovation sliders.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m259/pricelister/GiviCrashbars.jpg

If I were using bars they would be my choice too :thumbsup

I was intrigued by the look of these bars and just ordered a set to replace my Motovation sliders.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m259/pricelister/GiviCrashbars.jpg

Pricelister,

Where did you order them from? I like the look too.

mochoajr

PS, Why are you switching?

[quote=pricelister]I was intrigued by the look of these bars and just ordered a set to replace my Motovation sliders.

quote]

Pricelister,

Where did you order them from? I like the look too.

mochoajr

PS, Why are you switching?

Yeah I second that, do u just like the looks better or is there more of a reason to switching, I need to be buying something soon to protect this thing as Ive already laid it down once.

I just liked the look. According to the photo, they look like they belong on there. We'll see when they get here.

www.twistedthrottle.com

I just liked the look. According to the photo, they look like they belong on there.

My thoughts exactly. You guys have answered my question before I got to post it: as I have neither (yet), I was wondering, bars or sliders?

I've had my eye on the bars for a while. Now I think I know what I'm gonna do. Thanx, fellas! :)

[quote="pricelister"]I was intrigued by the look of these bars and just ordered a set to replace my Motovation sliders.

Dude.. lemme know if u wanna give away ur to-be old sliders. I would like to grab them.

The logo is scraped off the left side slider, so I'll just hang on them for back up. Definitely worth the money...and about 1/2 the price of the bars. I hope I don't get to use those.

I have a set of those on my '04. They look real good, but thats not why I bought them! I would never buy sliders. If you drop your bike on its side, they work fine,but if you crash, they do more damage then they prevent. The sliders dig in more often then slide, causing frame damage.
later,
Paul

Makes sense to me.

Off to twistedthrottle.com I go...

If you drop your bike on its side, they work fine,but if you crash, they do more damage then they prevent. The sliders dig in more often then slide, causing frame damage.
I have to humbly disagree. I've crashed once, and dropped the bike one other time with the sliders on they definatly helped. But, to each their own. Go for what you think feels best for you.

I had them on my Hornet and I still have them in the garage, I think they looked Coolio...........

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v221/Boodog/Hornet-h111.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v221/Boodog/Bars11111.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v221/Boodog/Hoon-noCan111.jpg

Who Ba55man.... is that the stock oil filter .... you know your supposed to swap those out every once in a while.... lol ... J/K

where is everyone ordering those hornet tank bag/protectors? I really like the looks of it and it has to be the most protective thing out there.

Who Ba55man.... is that the stock oil filter .... you know your supposed to swap those out every once in a while.... lol ... J/K

What You forget Sid, that I live in England where it rains all the time and believe Me it got changed every 4000 miles. Also I use My Bikes as everyday transport, they get used in all weathers which consists of Rain, Sun, Rain, Snow, Rain, Wind and of course Rain. :D

where is everyone ordering those hornet tank bag/protectors? I really like the looks of it and it has to be the most protective thing out there.

I believe this is the company to use in the US of A


Firm CIMA INTERNATIONAL

Address 399 WALL STREET, UNIT L
IL 60139 GLENDALE HEIGHTS
United States of America

Phone +1.630-671-9710

Fax +1.630-671-9701
E-mail helmets@aol.com

Hey, Bassman!
Do those crashbars stick out far enough to protect the radiator on the left side when the bike falls over? :thinking

Thanks.

thanks a lot for the info Ill have to look them up

UPS just delivered my crashbars. They are very nicely finished. I'll try to install them on Thursday.

mochoajr

Looking forward to your experience with installation.
... and don't forget the pics! :D

Looking forward to your experience with installation.
... and don't forget the pics! :D

Don't have any pics but the instructions are easy. The hardest bolt/nut to get to is at the bottom, back part of the engine case. There is actually a long bolt that goes through the frame and engine case. The bolt head is on the left side, the nut is on the right side. I was able to loosen the nut and slip the rear flange of the crash bar on. When you are doing the left rear, ie. the bolt, you need someone to hold the nut on the right side so it doesn't turn when you are trying to loosen the bolt. Once it's loose, unscrew the nut all the way to the end of the bolt, then tap the nut with a rubber hammer/mallet. You want to do it just enough to push the bolt out, so you can slip the left rear flange of the crash bar on. Then tighten.

When you are working on the rear left side; the bolt. Using a ratchet set, you are going to need a short socket, a long one won't fit and seat properly on the bolt head. Then attach an extension, then your ratchet. I recommend using a bigger than normal ratchet. You really need some leverage to unsrew the bolts and nut.

Hope this helps, any questions, just ask!

mochoajr

Thanks for the insight, mocho... looks like I'll be attempting thie installation next weekend.

Thanks for the insight, mocho... looks like I'll be attempting thie installation next weekend.

If you have any questions, ask. I won't have access to a PC till Sunday.

mochoajr

If your sliders caused more damage then they did help then you bought the wrong ones :thumbsup

If you have any questions, ask. I won't have access to a PC till Sunday.mochoajr

Thanks, man. As it stands, I'll likely give this a shot on Friday or Saturday, but we'll see how things go.... :? If I get in a bind, it can sit until Sunday. (Our weather here is supposed to turn cold again over the next couple of days, so I'm in no big fat rush.)

If your sliders caused more damage then they did help then you bought the wrong ones :thumbsup
Mechanic is right.
Besides, sliders are so ugly, if they didn't work, why would anyone use them?
(not my best logic, but makes ya' think, eh?)
But, yea, the sliders design, is very important, and a bad design is probably only helpful if you drop it in the driveway.
BTW, if I was going the crash bar route, I definitely get Givi. They don't look half bad.

I've heard people invent situations where they do more harm but think that those arguments are like the seatbelt and crashing in a lake thing...just doesn't hold water...get it? Crash...lake...hold water...? :lol:

Who's in charge while Alex is gone? Can Rnd be banned for his sense of humor?

Who's in charge while Alex is gone? Can Rnd be banned for his sense of humor?
:( Careful... A lunatic is in charge of the asylum :twisted: :lol:

:rad [Raaaaahhhhh!!!] :headbang
And the crowd goes wild!! The new Givi bars are in place, and without major issue.

Some of this: :thinking A tiny bit of this: :? And none of this: :yell
Right now this: :banana And later tonight, one (or two) of these: :friday
It's only 39° here now, so today brings none of this: :ride

Whew. Got my bars installed, and exercised a batch of emoticons. I'm spent. :wink: Pics to follow....

Okay, here we go.

[[BANDWIDTH WARNING :shock: ]]

[Super Sneaky Steve: I tried the video bit, but my digital camera only records in 15-second bursts. Bummer. ]

First up: clear up some work space, open the package, and check the hardware packet contents versus the included documentation.
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P4062317.JPG

Tools used: two ratchets; two 14mm sockets; two 17mm sockets; one breaker bar and 14mm deep-well socket; 6mm Allen wrench; one 3mm socket.

Right-side rear attachment point, with Givi bar held in place.
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P4062318.JPG

This is a very long bolt – the head is on the left, and the nut is on the right.
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P4062320.JPG

Started by removing the nut from the long bolt. It’s a two-man job, unless you’ve got a cheater. I had a cheater.
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P1012325.JPG

With a 14mm socket on the nut, and the breaker bar wedged in against the floor, we’re good to go for turning the bolt head.
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P1012327.JPG

Don’t remove the bolt! Just remove the nut and push the bolt toward the left side of the bike. The Givi bar flanges will fit without removing the nut entirely, but it was easier just to drop the nut off and work without it.

Next: remove the bolt from the right-hand side of the engine mount. (Only do this for one side at a time.)
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P1012328.JPG


This image shows the arrangement of the new bolt, washers, and nylon-insert nut, plus the original equipment spacer (black). To the right are the bolt and nut removed, and the rear end of the right-side bar. Put the new bolt in place and install the nut, but don’t tighten fully yet.
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P1012329.JPG

Move the right-hand bar into place, putting the lower section between the engine and the headers first.
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P1012332.JPG

Insert the new bolt through one flat washer, the Givi bar, the mounting tab, the engine tab, and one more flat washer, then install the nylon-insert nut.
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P1012335.JPG

Use two ratchets and two 17mm sockets on the new bolt.
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P1012336.JPG

Left side original bolt (14mm head). Remove this bolt just like the one on the right side.
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P1012339.JPG

Removal is a two-wrench operation.
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P1012341.JPG

I used the breaker bar here, too.
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P1012342.JPG

Replace that bolt with the second long bolt in the package, remembering to reuse the original black spacer.

Remember, the reason we’re installing the Givi bars is to prevent scars like this.
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P1012340.JPG

Left side bar, plus the nipple and the spacer that goes between the bar tabs. http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P1012344.JPG

A closer look at the insert and the spacer.http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P1012345.JPG

Go to the right-hand side of the bike and push the long bolt toward the left, just enough to allow the left-hand bar’s mounting tab to slip under the bolt head. http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P1012350.JPG

Insert the nipple prior to tightening any of the bolts.
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P1012351.JPG

The small bolt in the kit runs through the small flat washer, then through the tab on the left-hand bar, through the small spacer (not shown), and into the nut that’s welded onto the right-hand bar.
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P1012353.JPG

The lower hose clamp had to be repositioned – its original mounting had the screw facing forward – this interferes with the left-hand bar, so I rotated it such that the screw faces upward. Don’t forget to retighten the clamp.http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P1012356.JPG http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P4062357.JPG http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P4062365.JPG

The small spacer in place. I tightened the bolt well, and the spacer seems too short – it doesn’t get pinched between the two tabs, and at about 4000 RPM it rattles. I’m going to have to remove it and either replace it with a longer one, or pack it full of foam or grease or something to eliminate that rattle.
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P4062358.JPG

Tightening the front bolts is a two-wrench operation.
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P4062360.JPG, http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P4062361.JPG

Using the cheater method again for tightening the long bolt. Breaker bar wedged in on the right side, and ratchet on the left side. http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P4062362.JPG
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P4062363.JPG.

The only parts left over should be the two original bolts and two original nuts removed from the forward mounting points.
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P4062366.JPG

Time to admire: http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P4062368.JPG
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P4062369.JPG
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P4062370.JPG
http://www.blackcatresearch.com/photos/Honda599/P4062374.JPG

Vthoky,

Great job! I'm not as mechanically inclined and wouldn't have taken pics at every step like you did.

mochoajr

I love the way they look nice dude but a serious question for you cuzz ive actually seriously thought of these bars also but its tuff cuzz I REALLY like my streamline sliders too ...... but do you think they stick out far enough to stop the tank from hitting..... its just seems that they are too low on the bike and will allow the bike to hmmmmmm say "pivot" off of the crashbars and rest on the tank?

Vthoky,

Great job! I'm not as mechanically inclined and wouldn't have taken pics at every step like you did.

mochoajr

Hey, mocho: Super Sneaky Steve had offered me space on his video section, and I was tempted to do that. In fact, I tried it, but I found that my digital camera only records video in 15-second bursts. So I figured I'd just get a batch of still shots.

I do sort of wonder if this many pics in the post is too many -- will have to defer to Alex and the rest of the members for that decision. I can post it elsewhere if necessary.

Thanks for the compliment.

-Dan

I love the way they look nice dude but a serious question for you cuzz ive actually seriously thought of these bars also but its tuff cuzz I REALLY like my streamline sliders too ...... but do you think they stick out far enough to stop the tank from hitting..... its just seems that they are too low on the bike and will allow the bike to hmmmmmm say "pivot" off of the crashbars and rest on the tank?

Good question, mech. If I can scrounge up a yardstick in my garage, then perhaps I can use that as a "ground plane simulator" and see how things line up. Sounds like next weekend's project!

I attempted to install my Givi crashbars today, but they conflicted with my previously installed SW-Motech centerstand. I'll keep the Givi crashbars as they're NLA and very special, but will add GSG Moto motor protectors while I use the centerstand.

vthoky did a great job with the post, and it inspired me to try it out myself.

Some notes:
- I used a car jack to support the bottom of the engine while doing all this crazy work - An extra washer that is at least 2mm thick is nice to have. The bottom spacer that vthoky found to be too loose was also the same for me (yay, QC). I stuck that in there and no more vibration.
- Unbolting the lower engine mount can be done without a cheater or breaker. You can stand over the seat, facing forward, with each hand holding a socket or spanner. To unbolt it, bring your two hands together like clock arms (left hand sweeping forward CCW, away from you and right hand sweeping back CW and toward you). It's a cool trick I used in the shop for "dual" torque. Another benefit it you can apply inward force to the wrenches so you don't accidentally strip the bolts. I guess it depends how long your arms are... I've got shop monkey arms from all my wrenching.

Order of operations:
- Completely installed the LHS bar first (drive side), keeping a good amount of play in all the bolts
- Connected the RHS bar to the LHS bar by the threaded attachment under the headers (use the washer). Did not fully tighten down
- Hooked the RHS bar's rear mount next to the rear brake lever. Hand-tightened the lower engine mount
- Exerted A LOT of force to get the upper mount lined up and installed the spacers
- Tightened the connection under the header fully
- Tightened the lower mounts tightly
- Tightened the upper mounts tightly Hope this helps!

When you are testing to see if the tank hits this weekend, check and see if the radiator does also, seems like it sticks out past the bars...Thanks for all the good pics and info!

he was going to test it this weekend, 3 years and two months ago haha.

I'm on twisted throttle right now. I'm curious, what is the <foot peg clamp kit> ?

rtjwolf and co will be pleased to hear that I tested the crashbars... :cry:

Tank definitely does not hit. Horn is safe. Bottom of radiator is safe. Potentially the top corners of radiators could be hit.

What happened: had my bike up on pitbull standards while I had some drinking buddies over; I must have not been in the right mind, as the bike slipped off the stands and fell on its right side, with handlebars turned to the right. thankfully nobody was hurt.

the crashbars did their job protecting the engine and I believe the radiator will also be safe. the bars kind of bugle out to form a mini-trapezoid/pyramid that sticks out and prevents Roll, but I don't think it prevents Yaw that well. Given enough forward force, I think the bike could teeter forward and hit the radiator.

It's hard to tell given that 1. my tank was pretty empty and maybe extra fuel would give it the weight to "tip over" and 2. the bike seemed to be supported by the crashbars and handlebars (not good for the headset bearings, I bet) if the handlebars were turned in a different way...

I'll let you all know if I have any other test results... didn't pause to take photos before righting it as we were all in "right the bike!"

Morals: 1. don't be in a garage with the Three Bros - Jack, Jim, and Johnnie 2. get some spools

I'm on twisted throttle right now. I'm curious, what is the <foot peg clamp kit> ?

They seem to be mounts for MWF brand pegs that let you stretch your legs, harley-style. might be useful in protecting your real pegs. Seems like a high cost.

UPS just delivered my crashbars. They are very nicely finished. I'll try to install them on Thursday.

mochoajr

Let us know how they were to install...I was thinking of these, I just got my bike a couple of weeks ago and saw these on twisted as well.

Also I saw a guy with the Givi luggage today and had a good conversation with him about them and raved about them. Twisted has them as well.

* So i just realized I completely missed the second page with all the pics...newbie over-site!

:ride

foot peg clamp kit? anyone? haha

foot peg clamp kit? anyone? haha

Hope I answered your q there -- I'm pretty sure they're for comfort


They seem to be mounts for MWF brand pegs that let you stretch your legs, harley-style. might be useful in protecting your real pegs. Seems like a high cost.

haha sorry maestro! thanks for your response. yeah i was thinking along those lines as well. didn't order them though, 75$ extra? no way

Installed these about 700 miles ago, great product. Solid welds and a nice finish! I used gasket maker to get a solid fit on the joining cylinder, and used 2mm washers on either side of the supposed "buzzy" bolt fitting described in previous threads. No loose connections after this fair amount of riding, and complements on the aesthetics. Nice addition to the bike, although it kind of takes away from the cafe racer build i intend to complete.

Installed these about 700 miles ago, great product. Solid welds and a nice finish! I used gasket maker to get a solid fit on the joining cylinder, and used 2mm washers on either side of the supposed "buzzy" bolt fitting described in previous threads. No loose connections after this fair amount of riding, and complements on the aesthetics. Nice addition to the bike, although it kind of takes away from the cafe racer build i intend to complete.


Yea, i luv mine but i've developed the buzz noise from the front of the crash bars so i gotta fx that when i get a chance