Hey guys i just bought myself a yellow 04 with 8000km (about 5000mi) and i just got it home, but i didnt get a chance to ride it yet (it needs a battery) but for 4800CAD (4150US) i couldn't let it go. Im getting a new battery today hoping that it will get it going. The bike was in storage for about a year and a half. What needs to be done before starting it?

Congrats brother and welcome to the forum!

As for your question, I highly recommend you give a local motorcycle shop a call and ask them your question. If you have a few bucks to spare, perhaps you should take it there for them to get it preped for you.

Just my 2 cents. Some guys might have something more helpful for you.

PS. I'm going to move this thread to Repair and Maintenance section for you.

Agree with Alex... wouldn't hurt to take it to your local Honda shop and ask them to do a once-over including all your fluids (especially check the gas in the tank), brake lines, chain, etc, etc...

And hey... Congrats on th bike!

thanks guys, i'll start with the battery tonight, and i've already checked the fluids, i'll change the oil this weekend. I'm really hoping to do all this myself, unless it requires special tools or is too complicated for me, i'll try to tackle it myself.

I changed my oil this weekend and I really have no business holding a wrench. :wink: I made a mess so I'd suggest doing it over a piece of cardboard but other than that, easy as pie.

I need to buy a torque wrench...I’m now paranoid that I’m gonna either strip something or a bolt will come loose and all the oil will come out all over my rear tire as I dive into a turn... :shock: :lol:

If you don't take it in for service, I recommend the MSF T-CLOCS inspection:

T – Tires and Wheels
Check the air pressure of your tires and inflate to the pressure specified in your owner’s manual. Look for wear-and-tear on the treads, cracks, bulges or embedded objects.
Check your wheels for roundness, cracks and dents, and bent, broken or missing spokes.

C - Controls
Review the levers and pedals to make sure they’re still lubricated, and adjusted and fitted properly. They should not be broken, bent, or cracked.
Inspect cables to make sure they are not frayed, kinked, or folded into sharp angles. Also, test to make sure your bike’s cables at no time interfere with your ability to steer.
Check hoses for cuts, cracks, leaks, bulges, chafing or deterioration. Like cables, hoses should not interfere with your steering or suspension, and should not be folded into sharp angles.
Test that the throttle moves freely, does not stick and snaps closed when released.

L – Lights
If you removed your battery over the winter, install it—your owner’s manual should tell you how. Check the battery to make sure the terminals are clean and tight, it’s properly charged and secured. Check the vent tube to confirm it is not kinked or plugged, and is routed properly.
Look over the lenses on the bike to make sure they are not cracked or broken, are securely mounted and do not have excessive condensation trapped within.
Make sure the reflectors are not cracked, broken and are securely mounted.
Review the bike’s headlamp for cracks. Confirm it points at the right height and direction. Test the operation of the high beam and low beam options.
Test the tail lamp and brake lights to make sure they work when they should, and they are not cracked. Clean and ensure they are properly secured.
Test both of the turn signals – left and right!

O- Oil and other fluids
Check the levels and quality of the engine oil, hypoid gear oil, shaft drive, hydraulic fluid, coolant and fuel. Replace or top-up fluids that need it.
Check for leaks of these same fluids.

C – Chassis
Review the condition of the frame, looking for lifting paint, cracks, or dents.
Make sure the front forks and rear shocks are properly adjusted.
Check the tension of the belt or chain. Lubricate the chain if needed, and inspect the teeth of the sprockets confirming they are not hooked and are properly mounted.
Replace broken or missing fasteners and tighten if loosened.

S- Stands
For both centre stands and side stands, make sure they are not cracked or bent and that it springs into place and has the required tension to hold the bike in position.

If you aren't sure if fuel stabilizer was added to the tank, draining out the old fuel and refilling with fresh fuel is a good idea. At least top off with some fresh stuff. There should be a small drain screw at the bottom of each carburetor bowl. Removing these will let out the old fuel, and if the petcock is set to reserve, the tank will drain out too. Otherwise, I'd just change the oil and filter after warming it up, and check all the same goodies Ken recommended. :thumbsup

By the way, :welcome

good enough guys. thanks

i'm still waiting on that battery, i had to order it. :evil: i did drain the carbs today , and it sure looked good the gas that was in there was as clear as new gas.(i topped it off with new gas when i got it) anyways i flooded it pretty good trying to start it with the charger. How hard is it to get the plugs out? I have the service manual, but it doesn't say much on the sparkplugs. Can anyone help?

How hard is it to get the plugs out? I have the service manual, but it doesn't say much on the sparkplugs. Can anyone help?

is this the honda service manual for 04-06? check page 4-7.

i'm not sure why, but the manual says to release the radiator from the mounting bolts. remove the seat and side covers. remove the bolt from the rear of the tank, put the tank up on the frame grommets (don't bother with removing the vacuum/breather tubes or the fuel line from the tank).

pull the caps from the plugs and you're ready to go.

the frame partially blocks access to the 2 & 3 plugs, so the easiest way to get in there is with the spark plug wrench in the tool kit. for the 1 & 4 plugs, i found it much easier to use a spark plug wrench from a ratchet set i have.

for new plugs, turn 1/2 turn after it seats.

it might take 30 minutes the first time you do it, but it's not a big deal at all. the spark plug caps are labelled, so you don't have to worry about mixing them up when you reconnect them (so long as you know that the cylinders are numbered 1-4 from the the left hand side as you're sitting on the bike).

it's nice to have some compressed air to blow away any debris that might have gotten under the spark plug caps (do this before you remove the plugs). it might also be nice to have a magnet around in case the plug doesn't come out with the wrench.

i think that's it.

cheers!
.cyb
________
Crown Comfort Lpg (http://www.toyota-wiki.com/wiki/Toyota_Crown_Comfort_LPG)

thanks folks it was easy as pie! :D :disco :ride

hey guys i got the bike started and it sure sounds sweet. thanks for all the help. :friday i can't wait to go for a ride tomorow :D