Today my friend with an SV650 asked me to help him put his chain on. I thought it was pretty good timing since I've wanted to make this video but my chain and sprockets are still good.

I couldn't make video of me actually putting on the master link because my hands were full and we were trying to work fast.

I'll also make a better wheel removal video later.

It's usually good to to replace sprockets when you do the chain too, even if they still look good. So that's what we did.


Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ta6MVcCck6Q

Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ahHbrlOtUw

Part3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1FZ3SzreUo

Part 4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jroorILz0kU

Part 5
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39XvjLw1n8U

Part 6
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Bu7OAI9Gj8

Part 7
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jftKvNIE6dI

Part 8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-KkFro8NPI

Part 9
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzbkh1lu2kM

Part 10
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMlZXBlIf20

Part 11
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3lPgb1txDk

Part 12
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRaQ37vNoKw


Here you can see the master link. We first had to press it in with the tool then mushroom the rivets. It's important not to put too much pressure or you'll crack the tubes.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y123/ex500/SSS/Chain1.jpg

Here you can see the master link from another angle. We pushed it flush to the other ones, being carefull not to over tighten anything.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y123/ex500/SSS/Chain2.jpg

Here you can see the tool. This is a cheap $50 version. You can see the press with the slot for the pins to go through.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y123/ex500/SSS/Chain3.jpg

This is the tool in action. We used an adjustable wrench to stabilize the tool as we tightend it. I was looking at an angle in the picture above to be sure we didn't squish it too much.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y123/ex500/SSS/Chain4.jpg

One other bit of info. When torquing down the front sprocket nut don't put the bike in gear. It's better to keep it in neutral and either push the rear brake or use a bar like we did in the video.

I'm sure I'm missing some details so I'll add more as it comes to me.

Steve, my instructions were kinda confusing on one point...

If I understand correctly, once a rivited master link is in, you must punch out some other link to remove the chain...you can not (should not) remove a riveted master link...correct?

Are you saying if you mess up?

If you're talking about the old chain it doesn't matter cuz you're going to throw it away.

If you're talking about the good one. I don't see any reason why you can't cut off the master that you messed up. If you put too much pressure on the rivets then you can crack it, so I would not leave a cracked master on the chain.

And one other thing, now that I'm thinking of it.

There are two styles of chains. One that uses a clip and one where you smush the rivits. Don't use the clip on's. They seems easier but they aren't as reliable.

This is one of those arguments you can't win, but i've known several guys have a clip on style come loose. So don't be cheap and buy or borrow the tool.

Let’s say you (meaning me) are a dork and for some reason change gearing for trips a couple of times a year...? :oops:

You don't need to remove the chain to change the sprockets. Have someone hold the rear brake, hit the front sprocket with an impact driver to loosen off the nut. Then leave it there.

Take out the rear axle, slide the wheel forwards, slide the chain off the sprocket, pull out the wheel.

Change your front and rear sprocket, loop the chain around the front sprocket, loop the chain around the back sprocket, lift the rear wheel into place and install the axle.

You need to take the back wheel off to change the back sprocket anyways, and removing the back wheel gives more then enough slack to change the front sprocket.

Alternately.

Just buy some extra master links.

The master link is going to be the weakest spot on the chain, so there's not point in putting more then one of them in. Just use your chain breaker to break the old master link out, and put a new one in. When I got my chain I think it was $7 for an extra master link

My other set is the original and needs the original 525 chain...but even so I don't know if the original ratio with the 15/42 can use the same length chain as the 15/45 ratio...

I'm confused because my tool in some sort of broken English instruction says "don't break master" so I'm thinking once a master is in (rivet type) you can not punch it out. (at least with my tool) :?

A few teeth shouldn't matter. The axl should have at least an inch of play in it.

There should be no need to bust it up.

STEVE I LOVE YOU MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hmmmmm :shock:

Oh it's no secret...we all love Super Sexy Steve... :thumbsup

Well you took all the air outa that one Rnd :roll:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUaS0MBa_3Q

Here's a compete version made by Dave. It's just all the parts spliced together. So I thank him for doing some of the tedious dirty work for me.

I'm going to leave the segments up there because they are a little more clear.

I just ordered a new chain and sprockets and contemplating of trying to install them myself, or have a shop do it. The shop said it would cost $177 to do it. I figured I can buy the things I need to do this myself for about the same price. But before I go on a spending spree, I would just like to confirm the neccessary tools to perform this task.

-Rear stand (I was planning on buying one eventually anyways)
-Torque wrench (was planning on buying this too)
-chain press ??? I need this for the master link correct?

I bought the chain and sprockets from sprocketcenter.com and they say they cut the chain to length, so I don't need a chain cutter, or is it best to get one of those kits with a cutter and press just in case?

Am I missing anything? Am I better off just having a shop do it? I don't want to screw something up with this because it will most likely result in me crashing which isn't worth trying to save $177. Or am I just being a big P-U-S-S-Y and need to man up SSSteve style? :thumbsup

Well, you'll need to get the old chain off is all.

I say do it! Make MC Hammer proud!

Thanks, Steve! Where should I order a new chain and sprocket online? Any tips? Thanks again.

Thanks, Steve! Where should I order a new chain and sprocket online? Any tips? Thanks again.
Try http://www.sprocketcenter.com , I got my stuff there.

I just used your vids to change my chain and sprockets. Thanks so much for the step-by-step. :thumbsup

I bought a chain and sprocket kit and decided to try and install it myself. I went to a shop and they sold me this: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0066

But after I got the tool and read the instructions it said that I also need the rivet tool piece. It looks all I need are some more pieces for the same tool I have.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0467/

Is this the only piece I need to rivet the pins?
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/C08-058D/

As far as breaking the chain im not really sure how to go about doing that I was thinking of taking a file and filing down the rivet on one link.

Thanks!

I bought a chain and sprocket kit and decided to try and install it myself. I went to a shop and they sold me this: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0066

But after I got the tool and read the instructions it said that I also need the rivet tool piece. It looks all I need are some more pieces for the same tool I have.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0467/

Is this the only piece I need to rivet the pins?
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/C08-058D/

As far as breaking the chain im not really sure how to go about doing that I was thinking of taking a file and filing down the rivet on one link.

Thanks!
If you have access to a bench grinder, grind one of the pins from the old chain to a round tip, and you can use it to rivet the new chain together. Just lay the new one flat on a concrete floor, and pop it a few times with the pin, like a punch. I did mine that way, and it's held for 16k. :thumbsup