Hi -

Not sure if this is the correct place for this post, but I wondered if you have any tips on good use of gears.

Here's my problem, I have a new hornet 08, and it's very keen to go, at low speeds it can be jerky in first and sometimes second. Works fine if I use plenty of clutch, but not so hot when entering a corner or cornering as the last thing you need is to float around the corner with the clutch in.

Can someone give me some tips on the best use of gears at low speed?

Phil.

Howdy.

The typical thought process is to go around corners one gear higher than normal. Personally, I rarely make a 90d turn fast enough for 3rd gear, but it can be done.

Another thing I do (probably against the advice of MSF instructors everywhere) is to bridge the area between the throttle grip and barend with the ball/edge of my hand. So, basically, I can uncurl my fingers and the throttle stays where it is because since half my hand's pressure point in on the barend, my hand doesn't roll back. It's really just gripping the bar further to the right than normal, but it almost serves as a cheap cruise control and smooths out my inputs a bit.

Howdy.

Another thing I do (probably against the advice of MSF instructors everywhere) is to bridge the area between the throttle grip and barend with the ball/edge of my hand. So, basically, I can uncurl my fingers and the throttle stays where it is because since half my hand's pressure point in on the barend, my hand doesn't roll back. It's really just gripping the bar further to the right than normal, but it almost serves as a cheap cruise control and smooths out my inputs a bit.

I also do this quite a bit.

A gear higher than usual is typically smoother, so long as you're not lugging the engine. I used to try to stay in second gear, at minimum, for nearly any turn that I could. It helped me become more comfortable when I was getting used to the bike. Nowadays, if it's a 90 degree turn, I'll be in first and roll on the throttle quite a bit. Feels more stable.

May be unrelated, but my engine did not behave well for the longest time because I had my idle speed set significantly lower than spec. Correcting that made a world of difference.

May be unrelated, but my engine did not behave well for the longest time because I had my idle speed set significantly lower than spec. Correcting that made a world of difference.
This is important. Make sure your idle is at about 1400 - 1500 RPM (correct me if I'm wrong guys).

My advice (for whatever it is worth) is to not spend much time in first gear. Swich to second as soon as you can - you're a lot less likely to find yourself hitting some bump and jerking the throttle and flying into oncoming traffic. Being in second gear doesn't make the bike much faster, it makes it smoother. Once you're in second, the bike will pull itself slowly and smoothly even if you're not rolling on the throttle. This is where proper idle RPM setting comes in. If it's set right, you won't be stalling all over the place.

Practice this in an empty parking lot. (This will serve you well in making u-turns as well.) Start rolling, switch to second, and then slowly roll off the throttle. You'll notice that you're moving forward even though you're not giving it any gas. Use this state to practice u-turns (play with giving it a touch of gas and clutch control).

Hope that was helpful.

PS. I'm not an expert at this by any means, so if I gave any poor advice, feel free to correct me.

If you are going slow, and by slow I mean less than around 30MPH, there's no harm in feathering the clutch on tight turns. I used to do it in traffic circles in 2nd gear. When you are riding hard and are taking turns at speed you want your throttle on and you never want to abruptly cut off your throttle or make riding inputs that may upset the bike. But our hornets have loads of grip and if you need to feather the clutch at low speeds you won't lose grip. All that throttle on stuff is when you are riding at 9/10 of the bike's capability which few people do for long without getting themselves in some kind of trouble. Smoothness in all inputs is the key to good riding while you gradually increase the pace.

I was wondering about this too. I've been riding big scoots for 5+ years now but this is my first motorcycle so I'm new to the whole shifting thing. I took the MSF course to learn how to shift (already had an endorsement) but I don't remember them covering this particular issue.

I got into the habit of pulling the clutch in and shifting down while slowing before a 90 degree turn, then letting go of the clutch as I come out of the turn. Haven't had any issues with being in the wrong gear when I try to accelerate.

Is this a bad idea?

AO

Would have to say yes. From what I read you are going round the corner in neutral, in other words you are not in full control of the bike.

It's fine to slow down or downshift but you have to be in control of the bike!

Sorry if that is not what you meant!

Drag the rear brake.

It doesn't really matter what gear you're in, adding a little rear brake pressure allows you to smooth out and control your acceleration curve.

You should enter the corner under power, with all of you deceleration braking completed, simply using the rear brake to maintain stable acceleration throught the turn.

I can understand the damping of throttle inputs, but don't brakes usually decelerate the vehicle?

Under hard cornering, you want neutral throttle to keep the suspension settled... or so I read...

Well, yes the primary function of the brakes is to decelerate the bike, but when used in moderation the rear brake is highly effective in cutting out the throttle chop that can occur during acceleration, or in finding a neutral throttle positioning.

The power of the motor is far stronger than that wimpy little disc. Try it before you knock it. Next time you take a curve maintain your throttle setting and use your back brake to control the arc of your corner.

GP racers do it every day.

Right on Russ, I trail brake when I'm riding hard as well and use my back brake when I'm going real slow and turning tight. Smooths the bike out. Pressure on your inside foot peg in fast turns helps also.

Agreed,
I think the biggest difference is on the slow tight turns, it eliminates the "wobble."

I watched this guy's series of videos before I had even ridden a street bike. I think they're quite well done. He explains the use of the the rear brake in this one:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMgU44UwByY