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Old 10-25-2006, 10:04 PM   #21
rndthought
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super Sneaky Steve
Hey, some people didn't know where their air filter was.

Hay, it's a Honda...I just ride the damn thing.

And that's Mr. Man Whore, Esquire to you.

Hay quick question, your throttle... does it have some slack from rest (full off) to when it starts to engage the mechanics of the carbs? If I had to guess, I'd say my cable travels with about a 1/2 inch of slack down there and don't really remember it always being that way, getting annoying. Easy adjustment?
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Old 10-26-2006, 05:15 AM   #22
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You people can't stay on topic worth a shit. My throttle moves but probably not that much, more like 1/4" and my bike is brand new (only 450 miles).
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Old 10-26-2006, 06:09 AM   #23
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Yes, both the clutch and the throttle cables should have some free play in them before they enguage.

You could adjust it out, but it's not good to do so. Just leave it.

The adjusting nuts are near your lever.
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Old 10-26-2006, 11:25 AM   #24
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Quote:
The adjusting nuts are near your lever.
Oh...so THAT'S what they are. :lol:

I wish someone had told me sooner. Pardon me while i go do some adjusting...

Edit: It wasn't as adjustable as my girl was hoping it would be...but i think she'll still notice the difference...
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Old 10-26-2006, 11:47 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antihero
You people (rndthought) can't stay on topic worth a shit.
It's ADD, I will try harder...
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Old 12-28-2006, 09:26 AM   #26
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Has anyone succefully relocated the "Seat/Storage Key" on the 599. It is located on the plastic that gets removed during Steve's fender eliminator mod.

Image:


Let me know how some of you have gotten around this issue.

I really want to do this F/eliminator MOD.

Thanks!
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Old 12-28-2006, 11:25 AM   #27
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If you're just installing the Clear Alternatives taillight/blinker kit, one option is to cut the fender directly below the lock. It's cheap (free) and really cleans up the rear of the bike. If you're going to buy an aftermarket eliminator kit, someone correct me if I'm wrong, but it should include the hardware needed to relocate the lock.

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Old 12-28-2006, 08:17 PM   #28
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My home made fender elim bracket didn't fit my new cans so I did a good ol' chop myself.

I cut the webbing out the back side then I drilled new holes for the metal bracket. I didn't want to go any higher than about half an inch because I didn't want to block my beautiful Staintunes.



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Old 12-28-2006, 09:08 PM   #29
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They're beautiful pipes there, Steve...but what's with the little pipe outlet that sticks out past the main outlets? Makes it look kinda dorky from the side. Is there anything you can do about that???
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Old 12-28-2006, 09:17 PM   #30
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from the back they are crooked ......looks like the left one to me
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Old 12-29-2006, 06:05 AM   #31
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The dorky things are the silencer inserts. They are easily removed by a single bolt just under the lip. The cans are pretty quiet even without the inserts so I have them out for now. With them in it's DOT legal!
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Old 12-29-2006, 08:00 AM   #32
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I've relocated the key slot from the plastic back to the right side of the undertray where the can is. It wasn't too hard after you figure it out. pm if you have any questions.
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Old 12-29-2006, 08:59 AM   #33
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That's good that you can remove them. You could probably take a hacksaw or sawsall to the tips and cut them shorter so they don't look so weird when they're fitted in the pipe. Maybe at least get them to sit flush or something...would look so much better.
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Old 04-22-2007, 04:36 PM   #34
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Aargh.

I bought a Clear Associates taillight specifically so I could use the LEDs. It did not work. No light at all. Feh.
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Old 05-20-2007, 06:05 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rndthought
Quote:
Originally Posted by Super Sneaky Steve
Hey, some people didn't know where their air filter was.

Hay, it's a Honda...I just ride the damn thing.

And that's Mr. Man Whore, Esquire to you.

Hay quick question, your throttle... does it have some slack from rest (full off) to when it starts to engage the mechanics of the carbs? If I had to guess, I'd say my cable travels with about a 1/2 inch of slack down there and don't really remember it always being that way, getting annoying. Easy adjustment?
1/2" is WAY too much, should be 2-3mm... ummm that's like .118inches. Not really sure how you'd work that into fractions, well I am, but I'm not going too, lol.

The actual adjusting nut is down the length of the line a little ways, you'll find it under a rubber holder that can be pulled back. Then loosen off the small nut, and turn the big one out. This increases the length of the sleeve and takes the slack out of the cable. Make sure to leave SOME slack otherwise you'll start messing with your idle and it will throw of other adjustments down the road.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sachi
Aargh.

I bought a Clear Associates taillight specifically so I could use the LEDs. It did not work. No light at all. Feh.
It's clear alternatives... are you sure you didn't get a bunk/fake product?

That being said... the first thing to check if your lights don't light is the ground wire. Make sure it's connected and leading back to the battery/wiring harness. If that's good check the fuses.

Make sure that when you hooked wires together that you made a solid connection.


Are you getting brake light, but no signals? Or nothing at all?
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Old 05-31-2007, 10:44 AM   #36
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Is this tutorial pretty much the same for the Competition Werks Turn Signal Assimilator?

http://estore.websitepros.com/1784228/Detail.bok?no=313
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Old 05-31-2007, 06:16 PM   #37
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ASSIMILATOR II

Has anyone used the Assimilator II ? I have a LED now but I dont think it is bright enough and I like the red light cover with a black bike. I love my oberon front signals very bright and are visable both from the front and rear.
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Old 06-01-2007, 08:34 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sev
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sachi
...I bought a Clear Associates taillight specifically so I could use the LEDs. It did not work. No light at all. Feh.
... the first thing to check if your lights don't light is the ground wire. Make sure it's connected and leading back to the battery/wiring harness. If that's good check the fuses.

Make sure that when you hooked wires together that you made a solid connection.

Are you getting brake light, but no signals? Or nothing at all?
Just installed mine last night...at first it didn't work...no turn signals or brake...Pissed... unplugged the thingy from the PCB that plugs into one of the lamp sockets, spun it 180 and then it worked...Happy! Light bulbs don't care what leg gets the Positive or Negative but the LED board does...so if at first it doesn't work, try spinning the plug in the socket around...

Some thoughts - I got the smoked lens with it (I'd rather clear so if anyone wants to trade...) Over all I like how it works. Was a bit disappointed that it wasn't a bit brighter than what it is but maybe is more visible in the dark. There are also turn signals in the brake light now so I like that - will be looking at the Oberon ones that are visible front and back soon...like next tax refund check I still have bulb style blinkers so the flash rate is the same as stock.
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Old 06-01-2007, 09:16 AM   #39
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Quote:
Just installed mine last night...at first it didn't work...no turn signals or brake...Pissed... unplugged the thingy from the PCB that plugs into one of the lamp sockets, spun it 180 and then it worked...Happy! Light bulbs don't care what leg gets the Positive or Negative but the LED board does...so if at first it doesn't work, try spinning the plug in the socket around...
The guy at Competition Werks told me to not use the plugs but actually cut the wires and attach not using the stock plug... haven't installed mine yet so can't comment on his... comment.
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Old 06-01-2007, 09:42 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slide
The guy at Competition Werks told me to not use the plugs but actually cut the wires and attach not using the stock plug..
That may be better ultimately, but I didn't want to cut anything. Once I get my blinkers and all sorted I may explore this further but for now I'm hesitant to cut any harness on the bike.

Maybe look in Mouser / Digikey / Jameco / Parts Express to find the same connector and wire that in...
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